SF Road Trip pt. 3 - Sunday in the city

Cole Coffee

I have this habit of planning a meal or two ahead. You know, asking what is for breakfast tomorrow before we begin dinner tonight…

Before we are served at Chez Panisse, -M- and I ask the experts where we should get coffee in the morning. We briefly consider both Blue Bottle and Ritual, but then rule them out, as we are in Berkeley and they are in the city (you know, San Fran). J finally settles on Cole Coffee, a joint not too far from where we are staying. Before the end of the night, we get directions.

The next morning, we rise and hit the road. Cole Coffee is right where it’s supposed to be. We park and head inside. I had been told that they brew to order. Each cup of coffee ground and brewed as you watch. This isn’t the fancy machine they have down at Stumptown on Belmont, just good, old-fashioned drip. They’ve put together this contraption that can hold 6 or so cups, and dangling above, a filter holder. When the drips stop, you grab your cup and enjoy.

-M- had soy latte and a cinnamon twist. I had coffee. Very dark and rich, just how I like it. It was a little full, so I couldn’t put as much half and half as I wanted into it, but I tried (so now it was WAY too full, and began to drip on my hand from under the lid).


Ferry Market

-M- wants me to see the Ferry Market. We go to CC’s favorite chocolatier, Recchiuti, as well as Boulettes Larder, where I pick up some Japanese salt with gold flecks. Luckily we are there before the crowds show up. Things are just beginning to open, and we have no problem browsing leisurely.


La Palma

After the market, we rendezvous with S and J. We are getting a driving tour of the city. -M- is looking for ‘hoods for apartments.

Lunchtime arrives, and we head to the mission district for tacos. S knows of a great little place, La Palma, which bills itself as a ‘Mexica-tessen.’ More of a market with a deli in back. Piñatas line the ceiling.

They naturally make their own tortillas here. We get some tacos, both pollo and carnitas, and a cheese pupusa . Not bad: tasty, but not spectacular. We eat right outside on the street corner.

To be honest, I was more impressed with their lard, tortillas, salsas and various grains and masas than I was with the food itself. I almost bought a tortilla press…


Good Luck Dim Sum

I still don’t quite get dim sum. –M- and I attempted it in LA. S swears by this place Good Luck Dim Sum. We get seamed BBQ pork bao, pork shu mai (which were greasy but good) Chinese chives, and a couple of fishy items as well.

We get them to go, and take a cool ride through the Presidio. We park and eat right on the bay, under the Golden Gate, where Kim Novak, playing Madeline in Vertigo, leapt into the water.


Blue Bottle Coffee

I’d found the place while doing some research. I was trying to track down the best coffee in SF, as -M- wouldn’t be able to get to Stumptown quite as often as she used to. Both Ritual and Blue Bottle were the two that kept popping up.

The tour continues to Hayes Valley, a nifty collection of shops and a park full of utopic hula hoopers. Stuck in an ally past the homeless and numerous drug deals, a line ran out the garage door of a fairly nondescript and unmarked coffee shop… The smell was fantastic. Again with the individual drip coffee, I’m seeing this everywhere. We want to get some beans for Margo’s place, but they refuse to grind, so we go away with just a cup for me. Again, dark and tasty. I prefer this to Cole, but the attitude has totally put -M- off.


Pasta Shop

We’re tired after a long day of driving. We hit the 4th Street shopping area of Berkeley to pick up a few wine glasses, dish towels, and the like for -M-‘s temporary place of residence.

We decide that our last night in SF will be spent at home. We get salami and cheese, some bread from Acme, and a few other tasty treats (Cyprus black flake salt, cacao nibs) that actually are not for dinner. We are unimpressed with the produce and wine selection (we really want clementines, and theirs leave a lot to be desired). The store reminds me a little of Pastwaorks and Elephants Deli combined, although, in my opinion, not as cool as either of these Portland institutions. Finnochiona, Genoa, and mild coppa. St. George and a fresh goat cheese with herbs.


Tacubaya

As we are checking out of the Pasta Shop, the aroma hits us. The unmistakable smell of little tacos and corn tortillas. Should we stop in for a few? Of course!

We get a carnitas and an asada taco, as well as a little plate of perfect chips and so so salsa. Also, a litlle limonada. Very satisfying. We knew we were in for a treat when we spotted carnitas on a spit with a chunk of pineapple melting over the top.


Whole Foods

Yeah, not a SF institution, but we needed a bottle of wine (we got a 2004 Tempier Bandol) and a little fruit (a couple of clementines) for diner. Also, a couple bottles of water. We head back to the house, get Mr. Kitty some kibble, and chill. Later, we eat the spoils of the day and watch the latest episode of Top Chef on -M-‘s iPod (all the while chiding Tom Calicchio as he chides the contestants. His food at CraftSteak in Las Vegas was some of the most disappointing food I ate last year).

The evening was simple and plain, but it was very satisfying, and true to our style (and besides, after the drive, late dinner, and all day in the city, we needed a low key evening).


Peet’s

I really wanted to head back out to Cole Coffee this morning, but time just wouldn’t allow it. We get up a bit late, and leave the house even later. Luckily, the highways are fairly clear and we make it to OAK in plenty of time. I check in at the airport, and amazingly, I get an A boarding pass for my flight on Southwest. As I walk to the gate, I pass by numerous Starbucks. I’m hoping that there is another option up the terminal, and sure enough, there is a Peet’s. Not great, but still miles better that the over-roasted (oft burnt) over extracted sludge Starbucks pumps out. I also pick up a little decongestant and a bottle of Fiji water.

And with that, I’m on my way back to rainy, cold PDX. Thanks, -M-, for a fantastic trip.