23 Hoyt

CC and I (and 6 others) dined at 23 Hoyt earlier this week. The service wasn't the best. She tore them a new one on her blog The Devouring Woman...

PS, love the new design, CC.

Trip to LA - Part 2

OK, long overdue post about my LA Trip with MS from back in September '06 (you can read Part 1 of the post here). I've lost most of the details, but here's a little photo tour of some of the things we ate. Lotteria Grill, Outdoor Grill, In N Out, Foster Freeze...

PS-If anyone is looking WAY in advance for a gift for my birthday or Christmas, check out the 4th photo below. Nice grill. I'm just saying...

Best Wine of the Year (so far) - Parts 1 and 2

I haven't written one of these entries in a while. Not because I haven't had any good wines recently, but because I haven't had any amazing wines recently. To make it into one of these posts, a wine has to be mind blowing, earth shattering, revelatory. Lucky me, I've had 2 wines in the past 2 weeks that achieve this lofty standard. Here they are...

Weingut Seebrich
Niersteiner Oelberg Riesling Beerenauslese
Rheinhessen, Germany
2006 vintage

On May 7, 2007, my company held a really cool German wine tasting. We had 13 or so German producers in town, all pouring their newest releases for the buyers of the best wine shops and restaurants in town. In addition to this baker's dozen, our importer had two representatives pouring wines from another 7 or 8 wineries. Every table in the hall seemed better than the last, but one table and one wine in particular really stood out for me; Jochen Seebrich and his amazing '06 Beerenauslese (or BA for short). Not sure what BA is all about? Check this Wikipedia link.

My notes on this wine from the tasting are pretty limited. I've written 'searing acidity,' 'amazing,' and a big number 5 with a star next to it. I have a rough 1 to 5 scale when tasting wines. Very few wines merit a 5, which for me means things like 'buy a case,' 'absolutely unbelievable,' and 'worth the three times the price.' A 5 with a star next to it, well, you can imagine.

I've put in my order for a case. The wines should arrive in Portland in 2 months. There will be a scant 36 bottles for everyone else in the city. If you need some, give me a call.

Ameztoi
Rubentis (Rose)
Getariako Txakolina, Spain
2006 vintage

We had a Spaniard in town for work all this week. On Wednesday, we met for happy hour at Patanegra. I went, we had had some good tapas and a nice Albarino. We talked about wine and the wine business. It was a good time.

We were to meet again on Thursday, this time at Andina. I've been to Andina a number of times, and enjoyed it, but I'd been to this party just the night before. I imagined more good small plates of food, more nice white wine, more talk about the biz. I decided to skip out.

Then the call came in. Txakolina rose was making an appearance at the table. I didn't know they even made such a thing. I had to go. I've tried whites from Txakolina and I've heard about their red wines, but never a rose. For more info on Txakolina, check out this Wikipeadia link.

As with the Txakolina whites I've had, this rose was a little spritzy, high in acid, with hints of fruit and plenty of minerality. One of the loveliest roses I've come across in some time.

It's not cheap, retailing for between $16 and $18, but it is definitely worth it. Alas, good luck finding any. Word is that the importer, De Maison Selections, imported a scant 50 cases into the states, and that 20 of them made it to Portland. I personally called or visited 6 of the finest wine shops in the city and only came up with 2 bottles. Most were long sold out, or never had the chance to buy.

If you see this, I highly recommend picking up a bottle or two. Chill it way down and drink it on a hot afternoon. You won't regret it.

Apotheke

Man, I like this place. Yeah, it's white. Yeah, it's very hip. Get over it.

Go in for some fine Belgian beer (they use correct glassware), cool and esoteric liqueurs, European estate made wines, and some killer food (I'm partial to the French fries that are fried in duck fat...). Also, cool ambient music from live DJs most nights of the week.

Upstairs from Andina in the Pearl.

Where's My Fino Review!?!

Tommy over at Macerating Shallots clearly beat me to the punch. I've had a draft of a write-up kicking around for weeks if not months, it's just that every time I go there, I try something new and tasty, and have to rewrite the whole thing. Hell, just last night Stan served us his 'pancetta basket.' House made pancetta, wilted arugula, garlic tomatoes, and oven roasted grapes. Mmm.

Eating...

Here's a little recap of some of the more interesting things I ate last week...

Sat 5/5/07 - Le Pigeon (plus pre-meal drinks at Rocket)
with BC
a-Leek carbonara, in which leeks took the place of pasta
b-English pea risotto
c-Apricot bacon cornbread dessert
d-Bottle of Gruner Veltliner

Mon 5/7/07 - East Side Dining Club (hosted at Le Pigeon)
with BC, Y, and N
a-Grilled skewers, one with chorizo and banana, one with pork belly and watermelon
b-Ceviche with ancho popcorn
c-Venison "Tamales"
d-Black bean chilaquiles with a poached duck egg *
e-Grilled quail with mango, chiles, and prosciutto blanco (aka lardo)
f-Mexican drinking chocolate and housemade choco-tacos...
g-A couple of Spanish wines

Tue 5/8/07 - Rocket
with SS, GA, DJ, EK, and BC
a-Pork "Pocket Rocket"
b-Fries
c-Ginger pea shoots
d-Braised beef ribs
e-Some cherry dessert
f-Nut covered ice cream bar on a stick
g-Beer

Wed 5/9/07 - Clyde Common (opening night)
with BC and Y
a-Butter lettuce salad with rhubarb, aged balsamic, and parmesan
b-Asparagus with caul fat wrapped egg (poached)
c-Chitarra with nettles, walnuts, and pecorino
d-Whole roast fish with preserved lemon, olive sauce, and chickpeas
e-Charred hangar steak in harissa with grilled onion salad (mushrooms make an unannounced appearance)
f-a bottle of Gruner

Fri 5/11/07 - Pok Pok (plus post-meal drinks at Victory)
with CC
a-Khao man som tam
b-Khao soi kai
c-Mango and sticky rice with coconut milk
d-Cha manao

Honestly, a pretty serious week of eating.

* - Best thing I ate all week

Le Pigeon image nicked from http://www.ianlynam.com
Other images from the restaurants' web sites

Moscow Mules at the Victory

As loyal readers will know, I'm on a constant search for good Moscow Mules in town. I've found one that I feel compelled to tell you about...

I was heading to Pok Pok with some friends a few Fridays ago, and they suggested that we head to Victory for drinks during the wait. Vistory is just up at 37th and Division, so it was an easy move to make. We grab three seats at the bar and begin to pour over the menu.

That's when I see it, a house cocktail with Blenheim Spicy ginger ale. This stuff is mythical. I'd been hearing about Blenheim for a while from my good friend NT. We even went so far as to try to order the spicy version from the east coast (they were out of stock, so we had to settle for the regular, which still has a little burn). I paid something like $55 to get 24 bottles out here. But that's another story...

The cocktail on the menu has a drink with bourbon, fresh ginger, and Blenheim's. Well well, that's pretty damn close to a mule. I ask for the modifications necessary. It's all right. I'm not convinced.

My friend NT calls that Saturday and wants to see Grindhouse at Cinemagic. But where to eat? How about Victory. When I mention they have Blenheims, the decision is made. The food is good, a spatzle mac and cheese with crispy shallots and apple sauce, and duck with cheese grits and rapini.

This time, I simply ask for a moscow mule. It is the most perfect mule I've had out anywhere in quite some time. Impeccable balance and flavor. Do yourself a favor, get over to Victory and ask Amalia for a mule with Blenheim's spicy. You will not be disappointed.

Fake Can Be Just As Good

Or not, as it turns out...

I went to see Blonde Redhead last night at the Wonder Ballroom. I'd seen them twice before, both times at the Aladdin (which to be honest I don't care for as a music venue, but it's nowhere near as bad as the Crystal... why don't more bands I like play at the Roseland!?!). I'd almost seem them back in Missoula at the Cowboy Bar, but we chose Don Caballero at Jay's Upstairs (where my own little band used to play) instead... Too many tangents, back on topic...

I bought the new album last week. I'd been waiting to download from e-music, but they didn't have it. I had to shell our cash for this one. I'm a big fan of Lemons, and I appreciated Misery in all of it's overproduced glory, but honestly, the new album is crap. I can't play the whole thing through in one sitting. Horrendous. I won't go into details, but I'll say this, don't pay for it. Ick. That being said, they've always mixed old songs and new at their shows, and the chance to see them at what I consider to be a superior venue to their previous shows proved difficult to pass up. I get tickets for myself and my buddy NT. SF also joins.

Before the show, we grab food and drinks at Echo after we see how long the wait is at Russell St. BBQ (see how it all gets back to food sooner or later?) I'll say this, Echo makes a good Moscow Mule, and they serve it in a proper copper cup. Tell Aaron and TK I sent you.

We stroll over to the Wonder. The opening band is mercifully almost done. We grab drinks and head to the balcony. The lights dim, and the band appears. Or sort of appears. The lights are very dim on stage, and you really can't see anybody. Then the music starts. Some sequenced, prerecorded stuff. Yeah, they've done this before to good effect, using it mainly for their quirky sounds, but this time it's different. I think they had whole songs recorded. I think they were just playing along. At one point, everyone stopped playing, sort of a break in the music, but the music kept going. Serious drumming, but the drummer wasn't moving. What the fuck? Fake simply isn't as good.

They play a very short set which might have been a good thing, seeing as how they really only played the new stuff. Yeah, they turned in a less than inspired version of "Melody of Certain Three" from Lemons and a garbled, looped, and sampled version of "Falling Man" from Misery, but by and large, the entire show, encores and all, stuck to the crap from their new "album" 23.

Yeah, I'm a little bitter. I'd been looking forward to their new album and this show En Particulier for quite some time. And boy was it a letdown.

Pizzetta 211, SF

So it's Sunday eve, my last night in SF. -M- and I scour the Slow Food Guide to SF, that Eat Drink Shop SF book, and Chowhound. We aren't quite sure what we are looking for...

Then, somehow, we come across Pizzetta 211. I think we saw it first in the Eat Drink guide. We checked Chowhound again to see how it fared. Lo and behold, a positive review from Kim at Apizza Scholls. That was good enough for us.

Pizzetta 211 is a little out of the way. It's in the Richmond (hope I've got that right, -M-, maybe you can clarify if needed?). We park a few block away and walk on over. There is a bit of a wait as the place is VERY small. Counting outside seating, there can't be many more than 25 to 30 seats. We are told 30 min, but a table gets up sooner than expected, and the wait is more like 5 min.

We order a few things to try...

• White bean and kale soup (or some kind of green, maybe chard) - Tomato-y and delicious. A good start to the evening.
• Artisan cheese salad - Perhaps the only down part of the meal. A plate of slightly overdressed greens and some hunks of cheese on the side. When asked which 'artisan' cheeses they were, they told us cheddar, brie, and a sheep's cheese. All tasty, but not an amazing dish.
• Pizza 1, a basic margherita - Tomato base, mozz cheese, and basil. These are small-ish pizzas (maybe a little smaller that Pizza Fino's small [and yes, I will review them soon]), so -M- and I are able to polish them off with no problems. Good crust, top notch toppings, very satisfying.
• Pizza 2, we go out on a limb - Olive oil base, sheep's milk cheese, pine nuts, rosemary, and farm fresh eggs. We were a little confused about the farm fresh eggs. We imagined hard boiled, which seemed weird, so we inquired. No, in fact, they are over medium. The pie goes into a hot over first, with no egg, to set the crust and melt the cheese. Then, a couple of eggs are cracked on top, and the pie is put into a slightly cooler oven to cook the eggs. When they come out, the eggs are a prefect over-medium. We ask for an egg on only one side, not sure if we are going to like it. We crack the yolk and spread it around. One bite and we're hooked. So rich, so velvety. Why isn't this being done everywhere (although, when I mention it to Queen E, she says they have this over at Nostrana. I'll have to investigate).
• Scharfenberger flourless cake. A good ending to a lovely meal.

The wine list is small but good. Surprisingly it is mostly French, so you know I am happy. We get, through the course of the night, 2005 Chidaine Touraine Blanc, 2005 Kermit Lynch Cotes du Rhone, and 2005 Joguet Chinon (Petite Roches, I believe...) And, of course, I get coffee with the chocolate cake.

A spectacular last meal in SF. Good call, -M-.

PS, image borrowed from http://bayarea.typepad.com/

Sparklehorse at the Wonder

Yep, I go see Sparklehorse again, this time at the Wonder Ballroom in PDX. Smaller space, louder sound, basically the same set. This time, I was much closer. Fast songs fared better then slow songs at the Portland show, basically the opposite of the SF show.

Pre-concert, I ate over at Pok Pok. 45 min wait for a seat at the Whiskey Soda Lounge (and I was already running late) so I grab a few items from the cart and sit outside. It's cool but not cold.

N. Lombard Taco Taste Test, pt. 1

My friend, the ADC, has decided to eat at all the taquerias on N. Lombard over the course of the next year. I'm trying (with little luck thus far) to convince her to try them all over the course of a week or two, and hopefully expand it to all of north Portland.

Last weekend, we grabbed waffles and coffee at the Flavour Spot (I'll try and post more on that later), and drove all the way up Lombard, way past St. Johns, up to Terminal 4 and beyond. Then, we turned around and drove back, taking copious notes on every taqueria we came across. Address, hours, etc. I'm pushing to include one that is actually on Portland Hwy (which is what Lombard turns into)...

Anyway, here is the preliminary map.

If you have any suggestions for judging criteria, I'd love to hear them. Watch this space for future reports...

PS - Yes, I know Google has misspelled Javier's Taco Shop. Unfortunate, but not my fault.

SF Road Trip pt. 3 - Sunday in the city

Cole Coffee

I have this habit of planning a meal or two ahead. You know, asking what is for breakfast tomorrow before we begin dinner tonight…

Before we are served at Chez Panisse, -M- and I ask the experts where we should get coffee in the morning. We briefly consider both Blue Bottle and Ritual, but then rule them out, as we are in Berkeley and they are in the city (you know, San Fran). J finally settles on Cole Coffee, a joint not too far from where we are staying. Before the end of the night, we get directions.

The next morning, we rise and hit the road. Cole Coffee is right where it’s supposed to be. We park and head inside. I had been told that they brew to order. Each cup of coffee ground and brewed as you watch. This isn’t the fancy machine they have down at Stumptown on Belmont, just good, old-fashioned drip. They’ve put together this contraption that can hold 6 or so cups, and dangling above, a filter holder. When the drips stop, you grab your cup and enjoy.

-M- had soy latte and a cinnamon twist. I had coffee. Very dark and rich, just how I like it. It was a little full, so I couldn’t put as much half and half as I wanted into it, but I tried (so now it was WAY too full, and began to drip on my hand from under the lid).


Ferry Market

-M- wants me to see the Ferry Market. We go to CC’s favorite chocolatier, Recchiuti, as well as Boulettes Larder, where I pick up some Japanese salt with gold flecks. Luckily we are there before the crowds show up. Things are just beginning to open, and we have no problem browsing leisurely.


La Palma

After the market, we rendezvous with S and J. We are getting a driving tour of the city. -M- is looking for ‘hoods for apartments.

Lunchtime arrives, and we head to the mission district for tacos. S knows of a great little place, La Palma, which bills itself as a ‘Mexica-tessen.’ More of a market with a deli in back. Piñatas line the ceiling.

They naturally make their own tortillas here. We get some tacos, both pollo and carnitas, and a cheese pupusa . Not bad: tasty, but not spectacular. We eat right outside on the street corner.

To be honest, I was more impressed with their lard, tortillas, salsas and various grains and masas than I was with the food itself. I almost bought a tortilla press…


Good Luck Dim Sum

I still don’t quite get dim sum. –M- and I attempted it in LA. S swears by this place Good Luck Dim Sum. We get seamed BBQ pork bao, pork shu mai (which were greasy but good) Chinese chives, and a couple of fishy items as well.

We get them to go, and take a cool ride through the Presidio. We park and eat right on the bay, under the Golden Gate, where Kim Novak, playing Madeline in Vertigo, leapt into the water.


Blue Bottle Coffee

I’d found the place while doing some research. I was trying to track down the best coffee in SF, as -M- wouldn’t be able to get to Stumptown quite as often as she used to. Both Ritual and Blue Bottle were the two that kept popping up.

The tour continues to Hayes Valley, a nifty collection of shops and a park full of utopic hula hoopers. Stuck in an ally past the homeless and numerous drug deals, a line ran out the garage door of a fairly nondescript and unmarked coffee shop… The smell was fantastic. Again with the individual drip coffee, I’m seeing this everywhere. We want to get some beans for Margo’s place, but they refuse to grind, so we go away with just a cup for me. Again, dark and tasty. I prefer this to Cole, but the attitude has totally put -M- off.


Pasta Shop

We’re tired after a long day of driving. We hit the 4th Street shopping area of Berkeley to pick up a few wine glasses, dish towels, and the like for -M-‘s temporary place of residence.

We decide that our last night in SF will be spent at home. We get salami and cheese, some bread from Acme, and a few other tasty treats (Cyprus black flake salt, cacao nibs) that actually are not for dinner. We are unimpressed with the produce and wine selection (we really want clementines, and theirs leave a lot to be desired). The store reminds me a little of Pastwaorks and Elephants Deli combined, although, in my opinion, not as cool as either of these Portland institutions. Finnochiona, Genoa, and mild coppa. St. George and a fresh goat cheese with herbs.


Tacubaya

As we are checking out of the Pasta Shop, the aroma hits us. The unmistakable smell of little tacos and corn tortillas. Should we stop in for a few? Of course!

We get a carnitas and an asada taco, as well as a little plate of perfect chips and so so salsa. Also, a litlle limonada. Very satisfying. We knew we were in for a treat when we spotted carnitas on a spit with a chunk of pineapple melting over the top.


Whole Foods

Yeah, not a SF institution, but we needed a bottle of wine (we got a 2004 Tempier Bandol) and a little fruit (a couple of clementines) for diner. Also, a couple bottles of water. We head back to the house, get Mr. Kitty some kibble, and chill. Later, we eat the spoils of the day and watch the latest episode of Top Chef on -M-‘s iPod (all the while chiding Tom Calicchio as he chides the contestants. His food at CraftSteak in Las Vegas was some of the most disappointing food I ate last year).

The evening was simple and plain, but it was very satisfying, and true to our style (and besides, after the drive, late dinner, and all day in the city, we needed a low key evening).


Peet’s

I really wanted to head back out to Cole Coffee this morning, but time just wouldn’t allow it. We get up a bit late, and leave the house even later. Luckily, the highways are fairly clear and we make it to OAK in plenty of time. I check in at the airport, and amazingly, I get an A boarding pass for my flight on Southwest. As I walk to the gate, I pass by numerous Starbucks. I’m hoping that there is another option up the terminal, and sure enough, there is a Peet’s. Not great, but still miles better that the over-roasted (oft burnt) over extracted sludge Starbucks pumps out. I also pick up a little decongestant and a bottle of Fiji water.

And with that, I’m on my way back to rainy, cold PDX. Thanks, -M-, for a fantastic trip.

SF Road Trip pt. 2 - Chez Panissse

We FINALLY pull in to Berkeley. We are a bit late, so -M-‘s friends pick us up (giving us time to change and get freshened up a little from 11 hours in the car). After a surprisingly short car ride, we get to Chez Panissse.

One of -M-‘s friends works there, so we sneak into a super secret parking area and head inside. Everyone greets us, and we are shown to our booth in the café upstairs. While we are looking at the menu, we get a few glasses of wine. I got the 2006 Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc, S gets 05 Colle Stefano Verdicchio di Matelica, -M- and J both have the 2005 Tempier Bandol rose.

We get a bunch of apps to start with, all to share. All are well crafted, hyper local, and delicious. Here’s the rundown:

Bread from Acme bakery in SF
Pizzetta with nettles and ricotta salata
House-cured bresaola with rocket, new oil, and Parmesan
Baked Sonoma goat cheese with garden lettuces
And, one other with fish. I didn’t partake, so I’ll not list it here.


S brought a bottle of 2004 Robert Sinskey Pinot Noir which we enjoyed with the meal. I still took a long and carefully glance over the wine list. Well chosen, priced right, and nicely organized…

We all agree to get what we want entrée wise, but promise to share. S and I both get the ‘grilled heritage pork chop with crispy potatoes and frisee and apple salad.’ -M- gets the ‘braised Marin Sun Farms short ribs with kale and cardoon crostini and anchovy-green garlic salsa verde.’ J gets the ‘pan fried Hoffman Farm chicken breast with artichokes, mint, pine nuts, and chopped egg.’

Bites of chicken, pork, and beef cross the table as we all take turns tasting each others’ dishes. I think we agreed that the chicken topped the bill. My second favorite was the short ribs. My entrée was my least favorite (although still pretty damn good).

Desserts we handled in similar fashion. We ordered up a number of dishes and shared. Here’s the list…

Meyer lemon profiteroles with caramel sauce and kirsch cream
Passion fruit ice cream with orange confit and pizzelle cookies
A bowl of Fairview Gardens clementines and Barhi dates
Mocha custard with bittersweet chocolate curls and crème Chantilly

Oh, and of course Moscato d’Asti.

Of the bunch, my pick was the Meyer lemon profiteroles. Absolutely stunning.

On the way out of the dining room, I spy a dessert I wish we had gotten, the ‘red and white wine-poached pear tart.’ This would have been served with vanilla ice cream. Sounds a little plain-Jane, but it look gorgeous…

On our way back to the car, S gives us a tour of the restaurant, the kitchens, wine cellar, cheese locker, the drying/curing meats, whole pigs hung in the walk in. Everything was just as I had imagined.

A truly lovely evening I won’t soon forget.

Blueplate Lunch Counter and Soda Fountain

I met S at the (apparently) hard to find Blueplate Lunch Counter and Soda Fountain (308 SW Washington). This is Jeffery Reiter's (ex-Park Kitchen) little lunch destination. There is the counter (where we sat) and an additional half dozen or so tables.

The food is simple but delicious. They offer a mere handful of items each day. Each dish prepared while you wait. And, they've got an honest to god soda fountain. They make sodas to order.

S and I both get the French Dip. Jeff cut the roast beef by hand, piled it lovingly onto a grilled roll, an served it up with jus and a side of mashed potatoes and gravy.

-M- was SO right, I should have been here way before now. A true gem.

SF Road Trip pt. 1 - On The Road

Albina Press

We hit the road early, 6:30 AM. As it turns out, the coffee shop that opens earliest is also the best (and luckily not too far from my house), Albina Press. I run in for coffee while -M- hangs out in the car with Mr. Kitty. I order up a medium double soy latte and a scone for -M- and a large coffee for myself.

Fittingly enough, they are playing Mulatu Astatqé. You know, the music in the road movie Broken Flowers? We just happen to be on a road trip today. It’s also something I discovered from -M- on our first date between dinner at Noble Rot and the Found show at Holocene.


In-n-Out

We planned out trip so that we’d hit Redding, CA around lunchtime. Redding, of course, is the northernmost outpost of In-N-Out Burger. We’re a bit behind schedule and don’t get into Redding until 2:15 or so. We also miss the exit. I assumed there would be signs, or that it’d be clearly visible from I-5. No luck. We drive all the way through Redding without finding our destination. Do we turn around or keep going? My thinking is that we have to eat, and Wendy’s and Pizza Hut just aren’t going to do the trick. -M- called 411 and got the number for In-N-Out customer service. They guide us back into Redding, to the right exit, and through a maze of strip malls to the promised land that is In-N-Oout. My oh my is the line long!

The last time I had In-N-Out was in Los Angeles. I ordered a basic cheese burger. I left a little disappointed. Apparently I completely blew it. The menu behind the counter is so vague and simple: little did I know there was another ‘secret’ menu out there for the ordering…

This time, I went in more prepared (thanks in part to both -M- and the Guilty Carnivore). I order up a double double animal style, fries well, and a vanilla shake. -M- gets a double double protein style with grilled onions and no tomato, fries also well, and a coke. [Click here for a link to Wikipedia’s article on the ‘secret menu’]

Since Mr. Kitty is in the car with us, we decide to get drive through and eat in the car. After we eat, we make a trash dump, rearrange the car and hit the road. 3 more hours to San Fran, and 4.5 hours ‘till our reservations at Chez Panisse!

-M-'s Last Dinner in Portland

For –M-‘s last meal in Portland, she picks Le Pigeon, one of our all time favorite spots in Portland, hell, one of our favorite spots anywhere. On the way over, we drop some boxes off with a fellow Reedie who has agreed to carry them down to SF for –M-, whose car is way to full to fit anything else into.

We plan to get there at around 7. I am a little worried, you know, the most popular dinner hour, the fact the they are always packed, it’s a Friday night, and they were just written up in Bon Appetite. We walk in and they are, in fact, packed. (this is a far cry from my birthday dinner back in August shortly after their opening, when we had no problems getting a seat, which is actually a good thing. Gabe and his food deserve all the recognition they are getting, and then some). Tonight, the wait for a two top is 2 hours. We have no option; we have to eat there. It is –M-‘s last night in town, after all.

Gabe, Erik, Bryan, and Leif wish us happy new year as we walk in. They’ve expanded seating as much as they can (it is a small space, after all), and totally revamped the menu for the new year (only two old menu items remain, the beef cheeks and the cornbread dessert).

They take our cell number and will call us when our seats are ready. We walk down to Rontoms for a drink while we wait. We are hungry so we get an order of deviled eggs and an order of Swedish meatballs along with my terminal Gravity IPA and –M-‘s Mai Thai.

We settle up and head over the Ozone to kill more time by browse CDs. We’re about to walk in when –M-‘s phone rings. Dinner time!

We take our seats at the Chef’s counter. M wants the beet/meyer lemon slaw as a starter, and gets talked into oysters as well. They are beautiful together. The beet juice that spills onto the rock salt turns a lovely scarlet color.

I get a frisee salad with pine nuts and cheddar. Dressing is a little strong, but overall, very tasty.

We order up a bottle of 2004 Jasmin Cote Rotie. I fear it may be a bit young, but we are pleasantly surprised. The wine is supple and elegant, with just enough funk and fruit. Very nice.

For the main course, -M- gets the beef cheek Bourguignonne with crispy potato and glazed vegetables and I get Grilled Strawberry Mountain flat iron steak with brandied peppercorn butter, wilted spinach and garlic roasted potatoes.

Cheeks are one of M’s favorite cuts of meat [Last minute correction, she says they are UNDOUBTEDLY her MOST FAVORITE cut of ALL TIME]. She has gotten this dish the last 2, maybe 3 times we’ve been to Pigeon. As mentioned above, this is one of two old menu items left after the new year, perhaps due to it’s mention in Bon Appetite. At any rate, it lives up to the press description ‘so tender they’ll fall apart with a good hard stare.” -M- makes several comments about the melted collagen, and then makes sure that I know I will never find anyone else with such a love a collagen. She’s probably right.

Although they recommend medium rare for the steak, I have it cooked medium; it arrives absolutely perfect. The steak itself (tender and juicy) sits atop a bed of wilted spinach and potatoes. Atop the steak, a lovely pat of pepper butter. I watch Gabe melt it a little with a blowtorch. It’s a little showy, but it certainly does the trick.

I need to backtrack a little here…

As we are about to order our main courses, we hear Bryan (-M-‘s favorite server of all time) tell a table they are out of the cornbread dessert that we have come to know and love. We pull him aside and tell him that we MUST have this dessert. He assures us there is more in the oven.

Jump forward again…

When we are ready for something sweet, the cornbread is done. We get both this and the crème brulee with espresso pot au crème. A couple glasses of Moscato d’Asti make dessert compete. (We get Moscato EVERY time we are here, and they know it; so much so that both Bryan and Leif make sure to let us know they have switched from Elio Perrone to Vietti).

Dessert is lovely, and as usual, the apricot cornbread with bacon and maple ice cream wins out. This is the other item that was held over from last year (again, it was mentioned in the BA article).

On our way out, everyone wishes us well, and says a bittersweet farewell to M, whom they make promise she will stop back in whenever she is back in PDX.

Next up, our road trip to San Fran...

Screen Door - 12/27/06

Yes, yes. I know, faithful reader. You’ve checked back, week after week, hoping for a new post. I’ve let you down. This trend is about to change…

Last night, -M- and I went back to Screen Door. You see, -M- is moving to San Francisco VERY soon (like in a week), and she had a list of spots she wanted, needed to eat at before she left. The last spot on the list was Screen Door (other notables included Pok Pok/Whiskey Soda, Le Pigeon, Caffe Mingo, and Apizza Scholls).

We had been to the Screen Door once, a few months back, and really enjoyed it. We sat at the bar and had a good chat with David, the owner, about food, music, all sorts of things. Upon our return, we take seats at the bar again (I love eating at the bar), and sure enough, David is there. I am fairly sure he’ll have no idea who we are, but he does. He even remembers my drink, the Moscow Mule.

Let’s start with the drinks. -M- and I both get the mule. Screen Door has this fantastic, slightly sweet ginger puree (they source it from Aloha Juice in SE Portland). Ingredients include only ginger, cane sugar, and water. Honestly, this is the best mule I have tasted anywhere outside my own home (-M- actually prefers the Screen Door’s version, mine is too gingery, she thinks). Mmmm. Nice work, David!

We start with Hush Puppies, fried oysters, and a side of grits (-M- has never had grits before). The hush puppies are delish. Minced green onions and whole corn kernels dot the inside. There is a little ramekin of the tastiest mustard sauce ever. And, the salt is perfect. So nice!

I generally like grits, and these do not disappoint. They arrive with a little grated white cheddar on top. I add a little salt, and eat most of the bowl myself. Here’s -M-‘s take on grits… “I like these. Innocuous, comforting. Like a down blanket made of carbs with cheese on top.”

And, since I detest seafood, I didn’t taste the oysters. Again, here’s what -M- has to say… “Fantastic, crispy crunchy layer of breading that gives way to a burst of briny, meaty goodness. Mmm”

Main courses… -M- gets the fried chicken (also what she got last time). This time, she swears she will not overlook the side of smoked tasso gravy. This is some tasty fried chicken. Crisp on the outside, super moist and juicy on the inside. Served with a side of wilted greens. -M- is very happy.

I get the burger. I’d been craving a burger all day. It’s a pretty standard burger, cheddar, onion, lettuce, tomato, and the like. A side of tasty fries completes the meal.

We skip dessert, we are both super full.

If you haven’t gotten over to the screen door yet, you should make the trip. Sit at the bar, order up a Moscow Mule from David, and enjoy!

Chablis

I haven't written about a 'supplier dinner' in a while. Last week's is certainly worthy of a write up.

In town, Bernard Raveneau and Jean Montanet from Chablis, France.

We head to Paley's and proceed to have one of the finest meals I have ever eaten. Words will not do this meal justice, so I'm just going to list off the wines and courses.

WINES:
1990 Raveneau Chablis Gr. Cru Clos
1990 Lasalle Rose Champagne
1990 Quintarelli Alzero Cabernet Franc
1981 Vina Tondonia Rioja Blanc
1982 Italian Red (I want to say Barbaresco)
1994 Picolit (don't recall the producer)
???? Some outrageous sherried Italian delight
199? Franciacorta Cuvée Annamaria Clementi

COURSES:
Liver and Foie Gras Mousse
Pate
Sweetbreads
Oysters
Lamb's Tounge Salad with Chantrelles
Bacon wrapped scallop with celeriac puree and caviar
Squab with Foie Gras
Rabbit with carrots and fennel
Roasted pork with tounge and cheeks
Cheese plate with 4 killer cheeses
Almond chocolate torte

Jealous much?

POK POK RETURNS!!

Yep. They re-opened the stand yesterday, the 11th of September. And yep, I was there. The food was as tasty as ever. I really missed it.

I got my usual, an order of Khao Man Som Tam (Papaya Pok Pok served with steamed coconut rice, sweet shredded pork and fried shallots) and an order of Muu Sateh (pork loin skewers marinated in coconut milk and turmeric, grilled over charcoal and served with cucumber relish, peanut sauce and grilled bread). Oh, and to wash it down, Cha Manao (Thai iced tea with fresh lime juice). YUM!

Watch this space, hopefully I'll be able to compose a post about my eating adventures in LA with the lovely M.

Oh, the photo? It's the first thing that showed up when I googled Pok Pok looking for images. It was too funny to pass up.

Pig's Tail at Le Pigeon

M and I headed back to Le Pigeon (yep, third time this week, we LOVE it there). We get a half liter of some southern French rose (delightful).

M orders up the burger (which I had last week). It still looks fantastic, with it's heirloom tomato, slaw, and pickled onion garnishes. Mmmm. Instead of the potatoes, M gets a little salad. Cornichons, capers, and the like. Very nice.

I'm not terribly hungry, so I order up the pig's tail. Yep, sounds crazy, but everyone there said it was great, Gabriel, Leif, the whole crew. It came with the same salad M got with the burger. I was warned, but also ordered the buttermilk dressed mixed greens too. It ended up being an excess of lettuce. So, the pig's tail was breaded and then pan fried in butter. The base (the part that would have been nearest to the pig's body) was very fatty, but as I got toward the tip, less fat and more meat. The skin was there too. It was an amazingly tasty gelatinous pile of food. Gabriel said I should just dig in to it with my hands, and he was right. I tore the segments apart, vertebrae by tiny vertebrae, and nibbled all the goodness off each piece.

For dessert, we got our fave, the apricot honey cornbread with bacon and maple ice cream. We also tried that night's new dessert, the peach upside down cake. Very good, but it was no match for the cornbread. We had a 375 ml of Moscato d'Asti as well.

Again, a truly fantastic meal. If you haven't been, do yourself a favor and check it out.